Pastel is mostly pure pigment held on paper with very little binder, so it stays fragile after it is finished. Framing is the main way to protect it. The goal is to keep the surface from being touched or crushed, and to give loose dust somewhere to fall that is not on your artwork or stuck to the glass.
Why pastel needs space behind the glass
If pastel touches the glass, pigment can transfer to it, and condensation or pressure can smudge the work. Framers therefore separate the artwork from the glazing with a mat that is thick enough, a double mat, or spacers placed inside the rabbet of the frame. A gap of around a quarter of an inch is often suggested, and some sources mention a minimum of about an eighth of an inch. Ask your framer what suits your piece, and err on the generous side for heavy soft pastel applications.
Choose glazing carefully
- Glass is a common choice for pastel. It is stable and does not hold much static charge.
- UV-filtering glass can help protect pigments and paper from light damage. Some are also anti-reflective.
- Acrylic glazing can build up static electricity, which may pull pastel particles toward it. If you use acrylic, ask for a product described as anti-static and confirm it is suitable for pastel.
Whichever you pick, hang the finished piece away from direct sunlight.
Materials you will need
- Acid-free window mat and backing board
- Spacers (or a double mat) to keep the art off the glass
- Archival hinging tape
- Glass or suitable glazing, a frame and a dust cover
- A clean, flat workspace
Step by step
- Prepare the drawing. Hold the paper upright and tap the back gently to release loose pigment onto a clean surface, instead of letting it fall in the frame later.
- Decide on fixative. Fixative can reduce smudging but may darken colors or dull the bright, fresh surface of soft pastel. Many pastel artists avoid it on a finished piece or use it only lightly in a controlled test. Try it on a spare sample first, and follow the product’s safety instructions, including good ventilation.
- Hinge the paper. Attach the top edge of the drawing to the backing board with archival tape, so the paper is supported without being glued flat.
- Add the mat and spacer. Fit a mat that is thick enough, or add spacers, so there is clear air between the drawing and the glass. Some framers include a small channel at the bottom where dust can settle.
- Clean the glass. Use a lint-free cloth, and wipe the inside surface thoroughly. Avoid spraying cleaner directly onto the glass near the artwork.
- Assemble and seal. Close the frame, secure the backing and cover the back with a dust paper. The seal helps prevent dust and insects getting in.
Handling and transport
- Move the framed piece upright, keeping it face-out so loose pigment falls to the bottom.
- Avoid knocking or tilting the frame abruptly.
- Never rest a heavy object against the glazing.
Oil pastel
Oil pastel stays softer and does not dust like soft pastel, but it can still smear, and it may stay tacky for a long time. It still generally benefits from space behind the glazing. If you plan to submit one to a show, check the exhibition’s framing rules first.
Related guides
Once the piece is framed, add details on the back of a painting such as title and contact information, and read how to label artwork for an exhibition. For general finishing steps, see how to finish a painting.
Common questions
How do you protect pastel drawings? By framing them under glazing with a gap between the art and the glass, using archival materials and keeping them out of direct light.
Do I have to use fixative? No. It is optional, and can change the look of the pastel, so many artists test or skip it.
Can acrylic paint be used with pastel? Some artists use acrylic underpaintings, but that is a technique question rather than a framing one. For framing, treat the finished piece as a pastel work.